in and out – first loom trial fit

After trying out Visio to document the loom I got from Autospark I quickly became frustrated about the time this takes. So instead I would used the 1988 wiring diagram from GoMog as template and Paint.Net to just draw the changes. By mostly using copy and past of elements and a few new lines that was much quicker. Comparing the two diagrams the difference is actually bigger than I originally thought. With the fusebox cabling being the biggest difference.

Trying to find out which fusebox was used in a Morgan 4/4 from 1988 onward is a deadend right now. Since I have to order one to continue it was time to give this more thought. How many fuses should I go for? Having a few more cannot hurt – but will the cables be long enough? Is there enough space on the bulkhead next to the battery or do I need to choose a different location for the fusebox? Time for a test fit in the garage after a couple prolonged evenings at the office desk.

My first recommendation to anyone else doing a Morgan restore: If you have the bulkhead removed from the car and the chance to attach the main loom and heater unit before you screw the bulkhead to the chassis: DO SO!! While not impossible to fit it later – it would have been much more comfortable doing this while I had the bulkhead on the workbench.

On the left side of the car I have to remove the connector plugs for the alternator and washer motor in order to feed the loom through the small hole from the inside. The alternator plug was easy – I gave up on the washer plug as my hand were freezing in the cold garage and I had the feeling I should stop before I break something. I continued on the right side and noted down everything that looks like a problem:

• maybe remove the connector plug for washer motor (needs to be fitted after the cables have been pulled through the bulkhead)
• Remove the radiator fan fuse under the exhaust mainfold in the loom and bring the cables to the fusebox.
• Apply flexible cable heat shield for the part beneath the manifold
• Remove the unnecessary short white and white-black cables close to the coil and add the old plugs for the coil as well as the distributor connector
• Add white-blue cable from coil to dashboard for the starter relay
• maybe reroute black and black-white cables for the low brake-fluid switch
• maybe reroute cable for screen-washer pump
• remove purple looped cable for indicator connector (needs to be black – earth)
• add white-purple cable to rear harness connector (to fuelpump) and add Inertia switch, fuse and oil pressure sensor plus cable
• Reroute reverse-switch and handbrake switch cable (were on the rear harness before – now in engine bay close to the bulkhead

On the fusebox question I am now even more puzzled as before. With the help of the diagram I now found a way to just use 4 fuses of the Lucas 7FJ for all the cables that exit there:

• Number 1: Brown (N) is the main battery feed. All purple cables run of from that one. The two other brown cables run to the ignition and light switch.
• Number 2: White is the unfused igntion control circuit and comes from the ignition switch. All green cables (accessories fused from ignition)
• Number 3: Blue-white for main beam (german: Fernlicht)
• Number 4: Blue-red for dip beam (german: Abblendlicht)

Question is: should I do this? The 1988 diagram lists 16 fuses. 12 of those should be in the fusebox. Need to sleep on it. One thing is for sure: This wiring hick-up will cost me much more time as expected. It will delay the finish of the Morgan to at least the end of April if not May/June… this sucks

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