There are two reasons why this update took a bit longer. Firstly, my job kept me so occupied that I couldn’t motivate myself to work in the garage except for a few hours last weekend. Second and more importantly, I was frustrated that the Morgan did not start anymore after the first test drives. Last weekend I wanted to use the sunny weather to do another test run. The engine didn’t start right away, but after 3 or four tries it fired up. It idled for approx. 2 min then it soundly stopped. All attempts to get is going again failed.
As the car came back from a technical inspection, I sincerely thought that they had checked everything thoroughly. But as I found out while searching for the fault – this is not the case. Of course – all the mistakes that caused the problem are my own. Nevertheless, if you bring you car to a garage and ask them to check your work, I think it is fair to say that the expectation is that they are the experts that will most likely find the errors a weekend mechanic has caused.
After trying to start the car several times, the battery was below 12V and the smell of fuel filled the air. A check of the spark plugs showed that they were wet. Maybe a fuel flooding problem – maybe just caused by the fact that I tried too often. Since the rebuilt of the Weber 32/34 DFT carb was my first one – I suspected that this is the most likely cause. Additionally, I thought that the starter could be an issue – we had problems with it in the past. I took the carb off and went home to check it. Determined to find the cause I ordered the Haynes Weber manual from Amazon. Luckily, I also found two old Weber carbs on Ebay for an acceptable price which I bought right away along with a new starter and spark plugs.
The first carb arrived on Thursday. I decided to rebuild it with the help on the Haynes manual. During the process I noticed that I did two small mistakes on the first rebuilt. Issue number one: I had the primary and secondary jets mixed up. Stupid, but this doesn’t cause startup issues. The second one was a missing seal between the Autochoke. Float and needle valve (which I feared were the issue) at looked correct at first sight.
With the newly cleaned and assembled Weber carb and high hopes I went to garage yesterday. But after putting the carb back one and two or three attempts to start the engine I just had the same fuel smell in the air. The new spark plugs also didn’t change anything. Changing the starter wasn’t possible – as the one that was delivered didn’t fit… Still frustrated I went home. Just before I went to bed I found this video: (16) Carburettor Vapour Lock & Flooding symptoms , diagnosing ,causes and fixing. – YouTube
With this excellent explanation and some new hopes, I went to the garage today. Checking the new fuel pressure regulator was on top of my list. According to the technical specs from the Ford Service and Repair manual the delivery pressure can be from 0.24 to 0.38 bar. Mine was set to just under 0.4 bar – to slightly to high – which I corrected to 0.3 bar. Next, I checked the needle valve again and used Teflon sealing tape to secure it. The manual says that the float height is between 34,5mm and 35,5mm. I wasn’t sure how this is measured – but after setting my caliper to 35mm and holding it to the float it was clear.
And finally: I got back on track. The car started on the first turn of the key. It still doesn’t sound perfect – but it idles perfectly for minutes and quickly reacts on the throttle. The rest of the day was used to prepare the Mini Cooper for the engine refit – which is on my priority list for this week. I removed the old stereo as I will replace it with a simple Bluetooth receiver. With the stuff I learned about wiring on the Morgan, I also found a couple of errors I made while rebuilding the Mini last year and corrected those. Lastly, I removed the front swivel hubs. I am uncertain if I correctly adjusted the ball-joints and will have that checked.
Another used Weber from Ebay before cleaning 
Weber 81 SF AB is the right carb – a 32/34 DFT 4B 
I expected worse when I opened it 
getting this pump jet out can be tricky 
two rebuild carbs… 
This is the new AutoChoke I bought last year – unfortunately this part is broken on all old carbs I found so far 
telfon tape is highly recommend on the fuel intake, return and needle valve seat 
checking the float height 
Autochoke bolted to carb with seal this time 
new spark plugs 
quite disappointing – the new starter is too small 
I also cleaned an checked the distributor 
Carb looks good – I cleaned it again just to be sure 
trying to make this a bit better 
added quite a bit of tape to protect the wires 
dashboard is out. The bottom of the glovebox is made out for cardboard which has reached is EOL (end-of-life)… Will create a new one 
Swivel hubs are out. I also need to replace the trackrod ends again. These ones only lasted for a year/6000km…. 
Engine with rebuild gearbox is waiting to be picked up this week.
Fixing C6622 
Happy to see that my video helped… nice car by the wat
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